Part command center for a massive military empire, part archetypal Eastern pleasure dome, the lavishly decorated Topkapi Palace was the seat of Ottoman power for over three centuries. At least half a day is needed to explore it; and given the high entrance fee you might want to take a full day to get your money’s worth. If you’re pushed for time, the must-see features are the Harem, Imperial Treasury and the views from the innermost courtyard.
Though off the beaten track, it would be a big mistake to overlook the Church of Saint Saviour in Chora.Known for its Byzantine splendor, it houses celebrated mosaics and frescoes that are arguably the most important surviving examples of art from that era. Ironically, this Christian art owes its excellent condition to the church’s conversion to Islam in the early 16th century.
Serious shoppers should go armed with a notepad, a calculator and plenty of time when visiting the Grand Bazar– three hours is about the minimum needed for a purchasing expedition. Choose your vendor from over 5,500 and prepare for an onslaught of courting and cajolements. Yoruku is a highly recommended little carpet store while Pako (at No.87) stocks the city’s best handbags and purses. For coats and jackets, Kürkçüler Çarşisi is the area of choice. While beating down the price remember that the vendors pay they’re rent in gold – a hefty seven kilos a year for shops on the main avenue.
A truly relaxing way of getting across one of the world’s busiest waterways is to take one of the half-hourly commuter ferry services up the Bosphorus from Eminönü. Alight ashore at Beşiktaş, Ortaköy and Bebek along the way to take in the lush parks, palaces and yalıs (waterside mansions).
5. Hang out under the bridge
It may not sound like an ideal way to spend an hour of your precious sightseeing time, but hanging out under the Galata Bridge is highly recommended. The bridge itself forms the vital link between the two sides of European Istanbul, while its lower deck – directly under the walkway – is home to restaurants, bars and tea-houses with ringside waterfront seating for boat watching and cheap beers.